Bounded by the cliffs of the Julian Alps, between high and steep peaks, a picturesque path above the picturesque little Mojstrana, climbs into the heart of the mountain to the top of Vrtaško Sleme, providing stunning views.
Not every mountain needs to be famous to feel unforgettable.
Vrtaško Sleme, rising to 2,077 meters above sea level, might not appear on glossy magazine covers or attract climbers in droves. But for those who hike with heart rather than hurry, it’s one of the most rewarding paths in the Julian Alps.
Tucked just above the village of Mojstrana, this trail winds through forests, meadows, and quiet alpine pastures—slowly unwrapping views that make you stop, sit, and simply be.
Early Morning in Mojstrana – Where the Journey Begins
We left Istria at dawn, taking our time over coffee and mountain curves. The air was cool, the roads quiet, and our thoughts still slow from sleep. By the time we rolled into Mojstrana, the sun had just started lighting the mountaintops.
Mojstrana is a modest place. White houses with wooden balconies. Flowers in windows. And towering above it all: the walls of Triglav National Park.
From the last row of houses, a small parking lot marked the beginning of the trail. Above us, the trees pointed upward—like signposts for our legs.
Into the Forest – A Steep Start to Serenity
The trail begins assertively. There’s no gentle warm-up. Just a steady, steep pull through dense forest, with tree roots as steps and moss as carpeting. The early part of the climb leads you quickly into your own rhythm. Breath, step, repeat.
It took us about two hours to reach Vrtaška Planina, a quiet pasture tucked between slopes and sky. On the way, we passed through wooden gates designed to keep livestock in place. The fences seemed almost unnecessary—nothing here was in a rush to leave.
When the trees opened up, the view hit us hard: a wide canvas of peaks, pines, and clouds. We stopped, as most do, not because we had to—but because we wanted to take it all in.
Vrtaška Planina – Meadow of Stillness
At the pasture, we spotted a small shepherd’s hut, its roof slanting gently under the weight of time. It was surrounded by a low wooden fence, and the meadow around it buzzed softly with insects and mountain breeze.
The grass here isn’t just green—it glows. In the quiet, you can hear the wind move over it. No cowbells today, but the place still held the sound of animals that once grazed here.
We didn’t speak much. It felt unnecessary.
Higher Still – The Trail to Vrtaško Sleme
From the pasture, the trail continued—this time with a different tone. The climb wasn’t as steep anymore, and the forest began to thin out. Larch trees gave way to pine, then slowly to open sky. A narrow dirt path curved up through wildflowers and alpine shrubs.
Every few minutes, we’d pause—not because we were tired, but because the view kept changing.
To our left, the pointed peaks of Špik and Stenar. To our right, glimpses of valleys veiled in morning light. And ahead of us, a single grassy dome: Vrtaško Sleme.
The last part of the climb led us across grassy slopes and through a belt of dwarf pine. We crossed paths with a faint, unmarked trail that rises from the Peričnik waterfall—a reminder of how many ways one can reach a place.
The Summit – Standing on Soft Ground
At 2,077 meters, Vrtaško Sleme is more meadow than mountain top. There are no jagged rocks, no metal crosses, no signs shouting “You’ve made it!” Just grass, sky, and a horizon that stretches across the entire Julian Alps.
We dropped our packs and lay back in the meadow. Around us, peaks like Prisojnik, Triglav, Škrlatica, and Razor circled the sky like silent guardians. The air was still. The silence felt deep.
In a world obsessed with conquering summits, this one asked for nothing—just presence.
Down the Same Way, But With New Eyes
We descended the same way we came up. But, as always with mountains, the way down feels different. The light had changed. The shadows had grown longer. The forest now felt like a cool retreat after the sun-drenched summit.
It took us about 4 hours total—2.5 up, 1.5 down. But we barely looked at our watches.
A Village with a Mountaineering Soul
Back in Mojstrana, we wandered slowly through its quiet streets. Once a mining village, today it’s known as the gateway to Triglav National Park—and for good reason. From here, three famous valleys lead deep into the Alps: Vrata, Kot, and Krma.
The village breathes mountain life. The Slovenian Alpine Museum, located here, is a must-stop for anyone who loves stories of old gear, first ascents, and the spirit of adventure.
And then there’s Peričnik Waterfall, just a short detour away—a spectacular two-tiered cascade that’s especially dramatic in spring and autumn.
Trek Goat Tips for Vrtaško Sleme
- Trail type: Moderately steep, easy to follow, well-marked.
- Duration: 2–2.5 hours up, 1.5–2 hours down.
- Best season: Late spring through early autumn. In winter, the trail is steep and exposed—ice axe and crampons recommended.
- Views: Some of the best panoramic views in the Julian Alps for a relatively short climb.
- Ideal for: Hikers looking for solitude, alpine meadows, and a quiet summit away from the crowds.
- Equipment: Standard hiking shoes, layers, water, snacks. In summer, sunscreen and a hat; in autumn, a windbreaker.
Final Thought
Some peaks shout. Others whisper.
Vrtaško Sleme whispers.
It doesn’t challenge your courage. It invites your attention. It rewards you not with a dramatic final climb, but with a silent, soft moment on a grassy crown high above the valley.
It’s not a mountain to conquer—it’s one to understand. And the only way to do that is slowly, step by step, breath by breath.
Let the others rush to taller peaks. You’ll be up here, lying in the grass, letting the Julian Alps come to you.