The scenic village of Brseč, with its colourful Mediterranean architecture, is a place not to be missed if you wish to feel the full essence of the northern Adriatic’s smaller, quieter gems.
Set on a 157-meter-high rock, scenic Brseč is dominated with a bell tower and tiny houses made of colourful facades in combination blue and white. The picturesque lanes with the houses symbolize the tall hill set on the north side of Kvarner Bay, Croatia. The homes with the red tiles overlooking the coast of the island of Cres set on the opposite side. At the same time, the charmful and green landscapes on a hillside, Brseč make astonishing and colourful.
Why should you visit
Every time I visit Brseč, I see it through its arts part and the way of nature. This scenic jewel, like the every other Kvarner bay tiny place, has own fable. In fact, I like to say this place is made to present the adventure as it exists by itself. Lighten up by colourful Mediterranean – artistic architecture, providing a unique experience of its ancient and millennial story. Still, in the same way, quaint and serene, Brseč is one of those places dreamed by solitude seekers.
Viewpoints grazers will find in the other hand themselves in joying the horizon views. This place situated on a rock lush of magnificent scenes extending of Cres Island with the rest of Kvarner Bay on its coastline side. Učka Mountain landscapes with its green bounded forests on its hilly side are thefascinated combination between the Adriatic Sea and mountainous climate. Those are the viewpoints keeping in its corners the stories of the past time. And those are the stories has still here today reminding us of some ancient but not abandoned times.
So if you’re interested in stepping by into this magical and picturesque city, here we prepared some of the ideas and things to do while you’re in.
Brseč in history
The area was inhabited in prehistory, but however, there hasn’t been founded the findingsfrom Roman the age. In the Middle Ages, it belonged to the bishop of Pula, Messrs. Devinska, the princes of Goričko,Walsee, Habsburgs and Montecuccoli noble families, and finally the principality of Pazin.
The place was damaged during the Uskok war at the beginning of the 17th century. The ring of the Liburnian hillfort on which is the town projected is recognizable in today’s topographic situation. It was used as a base in the construction of the Middle Ages modern towers and walls.
Remains of fortifications were built into the rows of perimeter houses. Simultaneously, the parish church’s massive Renaissance-Baroque bell tower played a defensive role—the inscriptions dating the baroque portals of the patrician houses and the main ones, southwest. The remains of the manor castle were incorporated into the later architecture.
Therefore, a story of the citadel is the story of the history of Brseč over 7 centuries long. This period dates from the 12thto the 19thcentury. Owners were changing- the Patriarchate of Aquileia, the Devin. A governor of the Pazin principality, with Brseč being a part of it, collected feudal tithes from the people in livestock, grain, wine and other crops.
The inhabitants have engaged in agriculture (olive making, fruit growing), viticulture, animal husbandry and fishing. Recently, the development of excursions and tourism based on preserved coastal architecture has been encouraged.
Things to do in brseč
Brseč has many of that to show. Besides, it offers a beautiful view of the islands of Cres, Unije and Susak, and the Sisol peak on the mainland. Every traveller will find a little bit of something in it,from the historical sights, art sense to intact nature.
Stroll the entrance to the old town
Although it was built during the Middle Ages, Brseč old town like some of the surrounding cities has a classic old town gate just into one part of the complex’s lower section. However, what it does have is an entrance to the town starts from the building where the cafe “Sisol” is located. Admittedly, it used to be a suburb, outside the walls, but it merged with it a long time ago.
Above the entrance to the cafe is engraved in 1763. If we are talking about the richness of the history of the place considering there was nothing else of a similar age in the whole area it would be enough.
Buy some food stuff at the town entrance
A seemingly similar building across the street, which houses the local Suzi store, was built – I read again from the front – almost the day before yesterday, “only” in 1876. Entirely, by the way, there are a lot of younger “facilities” in Brseč that one could look at them. I came across one in the store. And I don’t know if it’s Suzi from the company. Still, the charming saleswoman is not only helpful but even singing while supplies goods from the shelves. So enough to think about for a moment to give up the town sightseeing and get “throw”into shopping.
Get some fruits or drink in the store as you can make your sightseeing easier. However, during the Sunday afternoon or holidays, I found that the store closed, so consider it you’ll avoid shopping in Brseč on those days.
Stroll the narrow streets in the old town
Brseč is a medieval city with narrow streets filled by small picturesque houses. Most of the old town places were built in the 17th century, while thecity walls, fortresses and the bell tower are dated to the early Middle Ages. The houses are typical examples of coastal architecture, and Glagolitic inscriptions can still be seen on some. Stroll its streets to get real experience of this tiny place.
There is an exciting composition to mention while walking through the ancient city passages and volts. Merged together with the remains of city walls and towers, the narrow streets, numerous stone steps, and houses “decorated” with the chimneys of quite original shapes make a ring shape. So while looking the city from the air one would most closely resemble as peasant’s hat.
Have a look Eugen Kumuičić House
Brseč is a famous Croatian writer and politician Eugen Kumičić (1850-1904), alias Jeni Sisolski. The house where the writer was born is tucked inside the middle of Brseč, in one of the narrow streets and today it serves as a library and art gallery.
A great writer, an untried doctor, studied medicine first. Later was a prominent politician. To get to the house, there should be asked the neighbours to follow you into the house. At the entrance to the house, the engravings are visible in the building’s outer walls showing the scenes of “Astonished Wedding”(Začuđeni Svatovi), one of the writer’s best-known works.
Looking around the house, it would be said that the Kumičić’s Family were a more affluent breed. But this is less important. It is more difficult to peek into the writer’s books and notebooks, sit at his desk, and look at a relatively rich collection of furniture, utensils and anything else from his childhood and youth. No one who enters the house should skip the window from which Kumičić looked. When you look through it, it becomes clear how he managed to draw life pictures of the sea, rocks, sky, coves, forests. That view is crossed out from the covers of romantic a novel of idyllic plot and happy ending. Unhappy Jelka, then Lina, Olga, Teodora, Sabina and other Kumičić’s heroines…Here there areso don’t miss a chance to a look at them from the window!
Exhibitions are held in the second room, and it is noteworthy that rocks are stuck between the floor and the walls. Ms Wanda, who guides entering into the house, says many old places in Brseč were made that way, by cutting into living rock. It enabled them, she said the least, the indestructibility, which is why they have lasted for centuries. By the way, the gallery space was neglected for some time. Considering it did not serve anything, the people of Brseč made an action, primarily local cultural figures,cleaned, plastered, arranged and the gallery was founded.
Marvel the Parish Church of St. George
The sacral building dating back to the Romanesque period is located at the highest point of the city. A plateau with the church, bell tower, and the nearby citadel formed the town’s original core until the well’s construction in the 19th century. It was the principal square-a place of meeting for the inhabitants of the city and region.
One- nave structure with a Latin sanctuary is considered to be the oldest part of the construction. In the 15th century, a Gothic polygonal apse was built. At that time, the church was entirely painted with frescos. The images of the life of Christ, preservedto this day are work of the Master Albert of Constance. An annexe to the chapels is related to the parish priest’s work and the Grgur Mavrović- He transferred Sv’s bones. Aurelius from Rome to Brseč in 1654. To accommodate the arriving powers in the best possible way, Mavroié built a gilded wooden altar of St. Aurelius at the right chapel, which is considered one of the best examples 17th-century wooden artof Istria and the Kvarner region.
A special place, both on altars is taken by St. George, the patron of the saint. Brseč is celebrating its day on the day April 23 in honour to it. Although he was a protector against various dangers and adversities, George was primarily associated with the beginning of spring awakening vegetation, fertility and abundance.
Make a photo of the Belltower
The Romanesque bell tower is one of the most recognizable town symbols. The such could also be recognized from the mainland and Sisol Peak. It is separated from the church and linked to the city wallrevealing its original function – as a defence tower and observation point.
The bell tower is very picturesque and is must-do stop while in Brseč. Take a picture with it since it would be an excellent memory of your visit to this city. Once upon standing next to it get a hike to the mountain above Brseč. Eventually, look in the town direction to get a pure-picture view. You’ll notice the bell tower it is the most recognized in the town when looking it from above.
The square where are the bell tower and church located measured by hardworking people is exactly 157 meters. Don’t miss to get a step there.
Learn about the communal cistern (well) importance
The joint Communal Well (cistern or “Šterna” called by locals) is built with the state’s support and collective efforts (rabote) by the entire community. It is one that evidences today the water has gathered the life of the place.The water tanks (cistern wells) were built in the 19th century, firstly by the houses of the wealthier people from Brseč. In contrast, the water supply system was just built-in 2008. Considering this fact, Brseč Cistern is obviously evidenced by the meaning of life’s most splendid feed.
Build at the end of the 19th century in front of the Brseč school building, the cistern’s communal terrace is surrounded by the city’s loggia, school and representative Palace of Mashunaria. It has become the gathering place substitutes the main square. The cistern used to be often a students’ spot, sharing its noise and laughter. Also, it served for the coincidental conversations of citizensmaking deals and arranging part-time daily wages (leisure time, adventures from the sea would be remembered.) Even today, the people of Brseč gather and socialize on the terrace of the city terrace.
However, from the beginning of the settlement establishment until the town hadn’t developed the cistern architecture, the water supply that had not changed significantlywas made much harder. During the dry summer days, people would get the water from the village towards the sea and Brseč beach Klančac. On the part of the stream called Jaz (Pit), not far from the puddle of Brseč, people used water from wells carved in the rock that would not dry out during the summer. The water was also accumulating from houses’ roof surfaces into the tin and wooden pots, wooden buckets (brente), or earthenware.
Get into the city gate passage
Along with the original, medieval entrance northwest from the city walls dating back to the 17th century, a newer entrance on the west developed. A double door system between Outskirts (Predgrad) with enclosed space in front of the city was part of modern urban development.
It opened the city to its west environment when the (medieval) war dangers decreased. The door leading from the Outskirts to the town was locked every day after Hall Mary, the ringing of church bells for the evening prayer.
Take a look an old mill
Similar to Mošćenice, the other Kvarner jewel, Brseč also houses an olive mill made in the medieval times. The olive mill dating back to the 17th century symbolizes the traditional olive making of the place.
Palace of Mashunaria
A residential building dating back to 1672, known as “Mašunerija” has numerous rooms, utility rooms and a loggia. It was built by the parish priest of Brsec, Josip Mavrović. Stone portal decorated with the coat of arms and the Latin inscription “Dominus Custodiatis located on it.
Whiz the place of the once city lodge
Being a part of the “Mashunaria”, thecovered city lodge located behind the city gates is another of the buildings built by the parish priest Mavrović, obviously the most generous patron of Brseč of all time.Likeevery medieval town, Brseč also used to have a place where its stone seated, municipal meetings would be held, where judges declared justice and captains announced the news. While in the lodge, the city’s fate and the locals were seriously discussed, just in front, in the Outskirts, dancing and rejoicing took place.
Like in many other Istrian places, stone fragments from the ancient or medieval period have been ordered in the lodges, sometimes a whole collection of coats of arms. So Brseč city lodge also does. Kumičić’s bronze head is located inside the lodge in order Brsečlocals respect their writer so much that they thought that nothing but him should be placed in the inn.
Every Saturday, with the sounds of bellows and people, the entire Brseč region gathered around. On the festive days of St. Aurelius, the locals from nearby Mošćenice, Plomin, Lovran or Kastav would come in. These were unique opportunities for young people from different places to meet and get closer.
Take a look at the small school
Don’t miss to have a look from outside a small school building. Today, the four-grade school was erected in 1868, and interestingly, it does not belong to either Opatija or Mošćenička Draga, but that one in Lovran.
Make a stroll next to the Church of the Holy Cross
The church built much later than the remaining churches and chapels of the parish of Brseč, dates back to 1727. The church of simple features, single-nave with a barrel vault and a bell tower, is located near the walls and the city’s former northwestern entrance. There is the Latin inscription above the entrance to the church as evidence of its existence. The building differs from other churches by its extending in the north-south direction, whichis a consequence of its location at the intersection of roads leading from Brseč to Potočina,to the sea and the church of St. Mary Magdalene.
The church interior is decorated with a wooden crucifix belonging to 18th century, 25 meters high, attributed to the Tyroleanworkroom. During the last restoration of the church in 1995, the oak door was enriched by the academic sculptor from Brseč, Ljubo de Karin by covering it with a shallow copper sheet. Relief on the church door represents the biblical theme of the tree of life (arborvitae), which is closely related to St. Cross’s worship.
Nowadays, in the church of St. Cross, the funerals of local people are held with a procession descending on the cemetery of St. Stephen.
Stop by the Citadel – Kaštel House
Though it is not kept in its original form, the building located in the historical core, by the northwestern city gate is valued to stop by. The building located in the place where it once citadel stood is always remembered and its significance for the city life. Since the defence is privately owned, it is impossible to enter in it nowadays. Still, one can look at it from outside.
Ex citadel was developed in the earlier period than the rest of the architecture in the town. The name Citadel (Kaštel), originally referred to the medieval defence tower that made a part of the city walls was extended through time to a defensive complex, which had been strengthened by the fortress so that Brseč served as shelter and refuge for people of the area until the 17th century. Since he also resided in the citadel, the governor of a feudal lord was also legislatively.During the peace period, the fortress was gradually reconstructed, and it acquired new functions. In 1868, there was a school built under the citadel.
The citadel was owned by the counts of Pazin who sold it to Sabarić family (a father and brother of the writer Eugen Kumičić in the second half of the nineteenth century. In 1873 new family home was built in its place, introducing the civic culture of the housing of the 19th century into Brseč. In the new house’s walled-in yard, the Šabarić family also built a bread oven and a cistern that was often used by the locals.
Have a look to the granary
Being as a part of the citadel, the granary presents the only preserved part of it today. The area is known as “Kašća” indicating granary, that is, the area in which the collected feudal benefits were stored.
Get step to the anchor – the highest point of the city
The anchor, “parked” at the point of the city, which should be mentioned is landed in a yard is in honour of local sailors. It reminds us that this picturesque town located on a cliff of Kvarner bay was affected the same faith as the other similar tiny cities. All of them had a limited possibility to work there for a living. In search to contribute a better life, people were gone sailing, and many of them still do it today for a living.
Brseč Events
Similar to the other medieval town, Brseč has its own events that shouldn’t be missed.
Feast of St. Mary Magdalene
Though services are sometimes held in the small church located outside the town on a cliff, there is every year on the feast of St. Mary Magdalene (July 22) a traditionally Mass. The mass is held in the church for the deceased and living benefactors with a folk festivity.
Tours in sourround
A lot of them. Ony one needs to choose what does he instead prefer, a nature walk or a culture trip.
Have a look The Church of St. Mary Magdalene
Located on a rock with an unforgettable view extending of the sea and the island of Cres, the church built around five hundred meters far away the old town of Brseč in the middle of the 19thcentury is a picturesque postcard that area.Though the church is not the St. George Parish property, it has historically been left to the care of her benefactors, whose estates were in its immediate vicinity.
The church has a single-nave with a rectangular apse. A facade decorated by a bell tower with one single bell is with unknown date of existence. Still, it is assumed to originate from the 15th century. The year 1872 is marked on the transom refers to one of its renovations, with the last one undertaken in 2009 and contributions from the inhabitants from home and abroad. The motifs of consecrated crosses were discovered (and restored)on the interior walls during that last renovation.
Behind the church, just off the cliff edge, the foundations of three Italian cannons are visible as the remains of a defence system from World War II, designed to control-the Great Gate (Vela Vrata), a sea passage between the Istrian Peninsula and the island of Cres.
Enjoy the view from the cliffs St. Mary Magdalene
The area is a prominent position in Brseč region’s landscape raised in the clearing above the steep cliffs,has always been addicted to travellers, whether coming by land or by sea, the first hint of Brseč.Below the heights of, the view slopes down to Klančacbeach, this place is lush of the magnificent view.
Besides the church, this place is a popular destination for visitors and travellers, mainly because of its beautiful nature and the chapel’s unique location. Incidentally, a kind of “refuge” was also mentioned here for the famous Croatian writer Eugen Kumičić, born in Brseč. Take a sit on the bench located above the rocks and enjoy the view. Obviously one could stay all day there.
Be active in Brseč
Due to its location, Brseč is blessed with a lot of active opportunities.
Hiking. Situated on a cliff, tucked between Kvarner bay, the island of Cres and Učka Mountain, Brseč is the ideal location for hiking grazers. About many of hiking trails in surroundings, we have been writing in our other article posts such as Sisol Hike, Tramuntana Cres, or mountain Učka. But let’s mention here are some of the most known connected to Brseč.
Putokoza Hiking Tip: get hike to Klančac Beach
Once after you made a photo from above the beach, get hike down to Klančac Beach, situated below medieval Brseč. There is an indication of the beach after the city centre. Take a restaurant walk and go left uphill, after which the trail willbegin to descend.
Putokoza Hiking Tip: Get hike to Sisol Peak
With the starting point above the place, this place is wonderful views to Cres island, but also with the entire Kvarner Bay. At the exit from the village of Brseč in the direction of Plomin, on the Adriatic highway, the extension is suitable for parking cars.
There you have to go back and enter the village. The marking cannot be missed.The ascent, at first, leads by a macadam road to the upper village. Then it leads along dry stone walls, partly through high maquis and further along open karst terrain to a sharp ascent to the pass.
Kayaking. Under of the village there is stretching a magnificent coastline. If you are involved in kayaking, then you should get try to kayaking this nature wonders.
Putokoza local tips of brseč
Seek for the details. There is a lot of further information calling to be seen in Brseč. This place is really lush art. while strolling the city core, one shouldn’t miss looking, Brseč Lace. The lace is built into the front door at some of the houses. There are also small blue-painted stone sculptures to be mentioned. Those are works of some of the Cypriot colonies. Eventually, one “Beverly” is located in the old portico. However, the most remarkable detail will be that which you mention by yourself.
Find the smallest theatre in the world! Yes, right there the little tiny place shares a particular story. The theatre is located in one of the narrow streets, known as “Teatar Oz“ is considered the smallest one in the world”, so at least its founders Anton Železnik and Mihaela Sirotnjak Železnik say. They only use to teach children fromBrseč and neighbouring places about the act, but they also use to invite the such “real” actors to Brseč, sometimes well-known names of the Croatian theatre scene.
Looking at the building in which it is located, maybe one would also sayit is also the most colourful theatre in the world. Built-in the middle of the stone grey, it shines so much that one has to rub one’s eyes and wonder if he is not sleepy from crossing up and down.
Getting to Brseč
The medieval town of Brseč located on a northern side of Kvarner Bay, stretching to Istrian Peninsula can be reached by car or public service.
✈️ Air. The closest airport is Rijeka Airport (RJK) on Krk Island. From there, take a shuttle bus (adjusted to flight schedules) to Rijeka. In Rijeka, continue by local bus from Delta station or arrange a private transfer to Brseč.
🚆 Train. The nearest railway station is in Rijeka (King Tomislav Square). From there, walk to the main bus stops (Delta or Žabica) and take a local bus to Brseč.
🚌 Bus. Brseč is connected by a few local bus lines. The main hub is Rijeka’s Žabica station, with city bus stops also at Delta and Jelačić Square. Always check the timetable, as connections to smaller places can be limited.
⛴️ Ferry. The nearest ferry port is in Rijeka, just 350 m from the city promenade. Several international and domestic lines operate from there.
🚗 Car. Driving is the easiest way to reach Brseč. Follow the scenic coastal road from Rijeka or from Istria. Expect narrow, winding roads with beautiful sea views.
🅿️ Parking. Limited parking is available near the medieval town entrance. During summer, spots fill quickly, so you may need to park outside the village. Be patient with traffic and mindful of speed limits.
