Krn Lakes are green stunning and nature heartbreaking. It’s not a coincidence. Nor since they are in a very heart of Triglavski Narodni Park. Moreover, as being apart of the Julian Alps, located above Soča Valley the lakes bounded by the magnificent grassy slopes underneath of peaks Velika Baba (2013 m)on north-east, Mali & Veliki Šmohor (1939 m) on the south and the Krn summit (2,244 m) on the south-west.
Sometimes, the best paths are the quietest. Tucked into the heart of Triglav National Park, the Krn Lakes invite hikers to forget time and follow the rhythm of nature. Surrounded by mighty peaks like Velika Baba (2,013 m), Veliki Šmohor (1,939 m), and the majestic Krn (2,244 m), this emerald alpine sanctuary unfolds slowly — and that’s the point.
This story is not about conquering summits. It’s about finding stillness between them.
A Gentle Start from Lepena Valley
Our journey began in Lepena Valley, a peaceful corner of Slovenia reached via a narrow asphalt road from the village of Soča. The road winds upward, 6 km into the forested hills, until you arrive at Dom dr. Klementa Juga, a mountain hut at 700 meters above sea level.
Built from a former military building in 1953, the hut is named after Dr. Klement Jug — a philosopher, alpinist, and one of Slovenia’s early mountain visionaries. This is a place that honours the spirit of contemplation and physical adventure alike. With signs of alpine hospitality and eco-conscious labels like Family Friendly Cottage, it feels like the right place to begin a thoughtful hike.
We laced up our boots around 7:30 a.m., packed lightly, and stepped onto the trail that would lead us into silence, shade, and eventually, sunlight.
Into the Forest, Toward Velika Baba
The hike starts softly, through a forested path that’s wide, well-trodden, and refreshingly cool. After a few minutes, the path forks. The steeper left branch feels more natural; the right is more relaxed — perfect for families or the elderly. We took the left.
This early stretch, zigzagging under pine trees, offers small wooden steps and occasional openings in the forest that reveal glimpses of the Lepena Valley below. After nearly two hours of gentle ascent, we arrived at an old freight cable car station. From here, the forest thins and the views open up.
Soon, we left the main path, turning left at a small meadow, guided by a modest wooden sign pointing to Velika Baba. The trail began to change — narrower, rockier, exposed to sky and light. Flowers nodded along the path. A slow breath in, and the peaks came closer.
The First Peak: Velika Baba (2,013 m)
The final climb to Velika Baba was brief but steep, winding through low pine and scree, eventually opening to panoramic views. By 11:20 a.m., we stood at the top.
This modest peak, though overshadowed in height by others nearby, offers commanding views of the Julian Alps — Triglav, Jalovec, Krn, Vogel, and more. From this quiet rock above the tree line, Slovenia’s wild soul stretches out in all directions.
And yet, there was no rush to descend. We paused. We let the mountains settle into our skin. The breeze cooled our foreheads. The camera rested. No one spoke for several minutes.
A Pause by Krn Lake
Descending the same way we came, we soon reached Dom pri Krnskih Jezerih, the hut near the lakes, around 1 p.m. Modest and cozy, surrounded by trees, the hut is a great resting point before the next wonder: Krn Lake itself.
After lunch, we wandered down the short trail to Krnsko Jezero — Slovenia’s largest high-altitude lake. Set at 1,391 m, it’s 300 meters long, shimmering in tones of deep green and gold. Bounded by peaks and alpine pastures, this glacial gem feels untouched. The lake is home to small fish, but swimming is forbidden to preserve the fragile ecosystem.
We sat beside it for a long while. Listening. Watching the light dance. The cowbells from nearby pastures echoed faintly. One hiker said the cows looked like something off a chocolate wrapper. We laughed — quietly.
A Second Ascent: Veliki Šmohor (1,944 m)
Some of us felt ready for more. Others lingered by the lake. For those who craved one more viewpoint, Veliki Šmohor offered a less-trodden trail.
The route begins past the lodge, then continues steeply upwards. Soon we reached a high meadow with views toward Jalovec. The air smelled of wild herbs. The path followed remnants of old WWI trenches, broken shovels rusting in the grass. It was history underfoot, almost absorbed into nature.
The final push led through scattered pine, eventually delivering us to the summit at 3:10 p.m. From here, Krn, Triglav, and the Italian Alps were all visible — cloud shadows sailing slowly over their ridges.
There was no need for words here either.
The Descent Through Time
We descended the same way, passing again the Dom pri Krnskih Jezerih and then rejoining the forested trail to Lepena. The late light painted everything golden. We reached the parking lot just past 6 p.m., sore but light — not from the weight carried, but from the weight let go.
The full hike took almost 11 hours with long pauses. But that’s how it should be. This wasn’t just a trek; it was a retreat.
Tips for Slow Travel to Krn Lakes
- Starting Point: Dom dr. Klementa Juga v Lepeni (700 m)
- Best Time to Go: Late spring through early autumn
- Route Difficulty: Easy to moderate
- Huts: Open in summer months; food and drinks available
- Bring: Water, snacks, sun protection, and a camera — but don’t live through the lens
- Respect: No swimming in the lake; help protect the ecosystem
Optional: Just Krn Lake
If you’re short on time or simply prefer a slower rhythm, hiking only to Krn Lake and back is a perfect day tour. It offers forests, history, pastures, and alpine tranquility, all without the pressure of a summit.
Let the journey be the destination.
A Final Thought
In the Julian Alps, it’s not about how far or how high. It’s about how deep you breathe, how often you pause, and what you notice when you’re not in a hurry.
Krn Lakes, embraced by silence and peaks, are a reminder: slow is not less. Slow is more.