Located into the Julian Alps mountain range with ends of the Planica, Bale, Koritnicaandthe last Trenta valleys, mighty Jalovec(2645 m) is “King of the Slovenian Mountains.”
If Triglav is a national symbol, then Jalovec is a symbol for those who listen to the mountains. It’s not just about the peak. Jalovec is about the approach, the quiet, the pause before the next step. It’s a long day or even two. There are no cozy huts to break it. Only two lonely bivouacs, some rock, some sky, and your thoughts.
What draws you here? Perhaps the longing for remoteness, for a challenge that is not only technical but inner. Jalovec is not a hike to check off a list. It’s a walk into your own patience.
Starting the Journey – Planica to Tamar
Most hikes begin with a car park. This one begins with a pause.
After driving through Kranjska Gora, you’ll reach Planica, home to world-famous ski jumps. The road ends here. You leave the car. The last hour to Dom v Tamarju is on foot—a gentle warm-up that already slows you down, aligning your breath with the valley’s rhythm.
The path follows a broad gravel trail. Soon, peaks like Ponce rise up around you, but it’s Jalovec, looming silently ahead, that draws your eye. This early section is quiet. No signs of summit fever. Just the sounds of your steps and the whisper of the forest.
Dom v Tamarju – A Place to Linger
At 1108 m, in a grassy hollow below the rock walls, sits Dom v Tamarju, a picturesque lodge built on the site of a former shepherd’s hut. It’s a place where many stay overnight before starting the climb—not to rush, but to rest.
This is where slowness makes sense. Where evenings stretch long. Where hikers share maps, silence, or blueberry schnapps. Where the first rays of morning light spill gently through pine trees and onto old timber walls.
From here, the true hike begins.
The Ascent Begins – Into the Wild Heart
From the lodge, a marked trail leads towards Jalovec, splitting early from the route to Ponce. You soon leave the forest behind and enter the bare, rocky amphitheatre of Kotovo sedlo.
There is a moment here—where the trees thin and scree begins—when you might stop and simply look around. You’ve left the world of huts and meadows. You are now in the kingdom of stone.
The path climbs steeply, weaving through juniper and scree, occasionally requiring the use of your hands. It’s not technically difficult, but it demands attention—and respect.
And then, just when you need it most, a surprise appears.
Kotovo Sedlo Bivouac – Shelter in Stone
At 1965 m, tucked beneath a great rock like something from a fable, you’ll find a small metal shelter—a bivouac for emergencies and those who seek wildness over comfort.
Built by the local mountain rescue service, this tiny cabin isn’t warm or luxurious. But it is safe. Simple. A refuge in every sense. Spend a moment here. Sit on the rocks. Look up at Jalovec’s grey shoulders. The summit is close—but never too close to rush.
The Ferrata – A Ridge Between Two Worlds
From Kotovo Sedlo, the trail becomes more than a trail. It’s a via ferrata—a secured climbing path requiring a harness, helmet, and focus.
The exposure is real. The views are greater still.
You rise above the world, along the ridge, following cables across rocky ledges and narrow passages. Here, hands and feet work together. No one talks. Only the sound of the carabiner clipping in, and your breath, steady and slow.
And then, after one final scramble across a sharp crest…
The Summit – Standing With the King
You reach the top of Jalovec, and the world opens beneath you.
North: Ponce, standing tall and sharp.
East: the regal peaks of Špik, Prisojnik, and Škrlatica.
South: Triglav—Slovenia’s highest—looking less dominant, more distant.
West: the jagged limestone of Mangart, and beyond, the Italian Alps.
But what captures you most is the silence. No cables hum here. No crowds cheer. Just a small metal box, a summit book, and the wind.
You sit. You don’t say much. Maybe nothing at all.
This is why you came.
Descent – A Careful Return
We didn’t chose to descend via Jalovška Škrbina, a steep and scree-filled couloir. But we choose the descent via pegs. This route demands as much care as the ascent. The pegs are dangerous without the cable. The path is loose and dusty. You take it slow. One step. One breath.
Eventually, you return to the marked trails. The forest returns. You see the roof of the Tamar Lodge, and the rhythm of regular time resumes.
But something in you has shifted.
Notes for Slow Travelers
- Total time: 6–7 hours ascent (with breaks), 4–5 hours descent
- Stay: Consider overnighting at Dom v Tamarju. It’s the best way to start the climb with clarity and calm.
- Equipment: Helmet, harness, via ferrata set, good boots.
- Best season: Late summer or early autumn, when the snow is gone but the crowds are fewer.
- Warning: This is not a beginner’s hike. It’s exposed, long, and requires gear and skill.
In the Shadow of Triglav, a Different Majesty
You’ll hear a lot about Triglav when hiking in Slovenia—and rightly so. But Jalovec is something else. It doesn’t care for crowds or legends. It doesn’t need symbolism. It simply is.
To climb Jalovec is to learn something about effort and grace. About quiet ambition. About moving slowly in a world that hurries.
Let it take your time. Let it keep a part of your heart.