Bounded by peaceful green surroundings and being one of those places are almost the entire millennium-old that has continued to exist today, Hum is unique and the smallest.
While looking at the small Hum’s sights that keep the stories of its turbulent past, I always get the real feel to be in the “Smallest Town of the World”. Having only the two narrow cobblestone small principal streets and filled with colourful artificial houses, Hum is a place delightful for strolling alongside. Medieval Hum was probably named after the humus area. It is known as the smallest place in the world. Although its current name suggests the Slavic root” Hlm “, which means wooded hill, Hum mentions for the first time in the 11th century. Then Ulrich II donated the fort, along with several other castles, to the feudal patriarch of Aquileia.
The legend of the imposing place says that Hum represents the door to the world. And indeed, it seems that at first glance we entering Hum. The legend has it Hum was created as the Mirna Valley’s last one. The giants who built Istria had only a few stones leftovers. They used them to make Hum, the smallest city in the world. With only a few stones left for the giants, they built Hum from them, making it the smallest city in the world. A fort hill surrounded by medieval walls consists of three parallel rows of houses. The middle row of houses is considered to be the oldest. Since the whole of Hum is surrounded by beautiful nature and the peaceful mountains of Ćićarija, it also makes Hum very unique.
H means Hum… the smallest place in the world real feel
If you have ever seen postcards or advertisements of Istrian hills representing the smallest town in the world, there is no doubt that you have seen photos of Hum. This idyllic Istrian town is located on a hill with a slight slope 340 meters high, not far from neighbouring Roč. As I watch the sights of little Hum, who keeps stories of his turbulent past, I always have the feeling that everything is at hand. As it befits the smallest one in the world. With only two narrow streets filled with artistically painted houses, Hum is a place very pleasant for walking and with beautiful views.
Harmony of art and peaceful life
Many visitors often ask me about life in Istria, wondering how healthy life is in central Istria, especially for children. In response, it can be said that this small town, like similar towns in Istria, will certainly remain one of the most peaceful places. Not only for the younger ones who enjoy the carefree game but also for families looking for peace. Hum, which has become a tourist attraction, while retaining the epithet of its greatness. Picturesque and quiet.
Why is Hum so calm? This is certainly due to its position in Istria, but also due to the architecture of the area, which has preserved its urbanization in the artificial style of the past. As the streets are without traffic, you can walk around the whole place in half an hour, without thinking about anything but the search for art and history. The small town was once one of the most famous centres of Glagolitic. According to the 1542 census, 240 people were living in Hum, with 62 hearths, in 1880 there were 101 inhabitants, while in 1918, Hum had 400 inhabitants. And that was the end of the First World War, at the same time as the outbreak of the Spanish flu pandemic began in Europe.
Hum sights
Although the smallest in the world, it does not mean that Hum is not unique to visit. It will be loved by lovers of medieval places, as this place is almost a millennium old. The former “Castrum Cholm” or Italian “Colmo” retains the complete harmony of architecture within the city walls. They are defined in the early Middle Ages. Hum Fortress was located on a plateau in the western part of the city. Within the defensive walls, today is partly the parish church, the parish court and the westernmost part of the northern row of houses. Although Hum in the period from the 12th to the 15th century during Aquileia recorded a flourishing of art, the period of the Venetian Republic in the 16th century defines it most in its present form. At that time, a double (main) city gate, a city loggia, was built.
Even though Hum is the smallest place in the world, it still seems to be bigger than the Vatican, which is a state. Although Hum is often mentioned in the Guinness Book of Records as the smallest city in the world, I could not find such information. However, it is also not easy to find any city in the world that would be so small. My suggestion in the summer is to plan my arrival in Hum earlier in the morning before the daily sightseeing starts. You will easily find your table overlooking the charming street and the imposing church.
Double Gate and square
The double front door is from the early 12th century, and the next one from 1562 leads to a small square from the 11th century. It is the main square of the smallest city in the world, Huma. The town loggia, built at the same time as the fontics (wheat vessel) in the square, dates from the 16th century. Both buildings were created by adapting two older medieval houses in the middle row, which extended to the square in front of the buildings.
If you are in Istria in mid-July, you should come to Hum on July 13, because elections are held here every year on that day. The new mayor of Hum is elected by a Council of 11 judges.
Parish Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary
A parish church from the Renaissance period from 1802 was built on the site of the old Romanesque church. It is located on the highest point of the city, which also gave it a view of the surroundings. Next to the church is the dominant bell tower 22 meters high. It dates from 1552.
Frescoes in the Romanesque chapel of St. Jerome
The interior of the Romanesque chapel of St. Jerome, located in the Hum cemetery from the 12th century, preserves valuable frescoes and inscriptions from the 12th century. The key to the church is in the Hum tavern.
A visit to Hum means… tasting the local Biska and a tour of the Glagolitic Alley
Yes, Hum is one of those places where you can taste Istrian products. One of the most famous local symbols is certainly “Humska Biska”. And after we walked around the place and tasted the bishop, we should use the time to go down to the famous Glagolitic Alley. The most important Glagolitic monument in Istria is located on the road between Roč and Hum. The alley connects the two towns through a six-kilometre-long road with ten Glagolitic monuments. It ends in Hum, where the city gate from the 11th century is located.
Bonus trip: visit Roč, the town of the printing machine
In the Middle Ages, Roč was a fortified settlement similar to Hum. With a double city gate and a Venetian cannon from the 15thcentury and three churches, including the church of St. Roka with frescoes, Roč is another city that you can visit at the same time as Hum. What he is best known for is that it is home to the oldest Istrian printing machine.
Putokoza local advice: The winning combination is to visit all three points: Hum, Roč and Aleja Glagoljaša!
Daily tour: get fresh in Kotli Village
The Kotli village situated close to Buzet is also not so far away from Hum and Roč. The town known for craftsmen, tailors and milers had once a population of more than a hundred people. The small picturesque place is a very favourite spot for locals and Istria residents because it is situated straight on the Rečina River flow. There is also a recently renovated watermill that testifies to a rich tradition of craft, which used to grind barley, corn and wheat throughout the year. Suppose you’re in central Istria during the summer months. In that case, this could be an excellent opportunity to jump in the freshwater of Rečina River, one of the rivers in Mirna’s arms.
Similar to the other Istrian hilltops, such as Oprtalj, Zrenj, Buzet, Motovun, etc., Hum is very often spotted by daily tours as itself. However, every year, more visitors decide to choose central Istrian Gems as Hum for their holiday since those are in tranquil surroundings. If you do, read our blog post, about the Things that should make to feel Istria, to see the other daily tours from Hum.
Hum outdoor
Apart from being popular for its sights and hilltop views, more and more people are also discovering the Istrian hidden beauties of the hinterland through outdoor activities. Such completes the image of Istria as an outdoor destination. So does Hum, which has numerous possibilities that must be uncovered. I will reveal to you my favourite trail.
Cycling. There are the bicycle routes alongside the Istrian hilltops which include Hum as also. You can, for instance, combine the cycling route Hum – Buzet – Roč. Numerous ways are starting in Roč and Buzet such as those leading across the slopes of Ćićarija.
Trekking & walking. Though the Hum is already on the hilltop, it’s possible to choose it as the starting point for a trail. Yes, we did it! And I have done it more than once.
Hum Walking Trail Diary Tip: Hum – Benčići – Kotli
After that, you parked your car next to Hum, head towards Mirna indication. It begins with the mild steep descent path. that will get us to the Mirna valley. As we get closer to the river, the path seems to be muddier. Occasionally, the water made so many puddles, so we bypass it and move through the overgrown plants by the side. Though the water is everywhere along the way, don’t give up and continue to move on. Your walk will be valued.
Soon we’ll reach the abandoned village of Benčići. The houses are almost completely devastated, but you can still feel the past spirit. There are few of the stone houses restored. Now you know that we have moved away from the beaten path as you see this is the place to feel the real hinterland heart beating of Istria. In the spring and the autumn, you’ll hear the birds singing here, in the summer the sound of crickets and the song of the wind in winter. Once upon a time, 100 people lived in the place, the fields were cultivated, and everything planted was grown up. The village as a whole is for sale.
Continuing moving forward, leading over the meadows and fields you’ll get to the point where is needed to cross the river. It’s not comprehensive, but without getting wet to the knees, it’s impossible. Another crossing of the water is coming soon that is shallower, so there is no need to take off shoes. Mud and water are already over our heads. Eventually, we reach Kotli village. Keep in mind the depth of the river depends on the time of the year and the precipitation.
Getting to Hum Istria
- Car and parking place. Road travel is, probably the best choice to feel and explore Istria. So, and in Hum it does. The series of road tracks connect Istria and Croatia to central Europe with great highways. A parking lot is standing under the place entrance at the foothill.
- Bus. The nearest bus station is in Buzet centre. There are bus connections from almost every bigger Istrian town to Buzet, such as Umag, Novigrad, Poreč and Rovinj. There are daily bus connections to Rijeka and Zagreb and international connections to Trieste and Venice.