The “Grobnik Alps” mountain range in Croatia, named after the village of Grobnik and the valley beneath it, rises like a wall above the Grobnik Field in the hinterland of Rijeka.
This natural barrier separates two distinct climatic zones: the mountainous interior and the coastal region. The area is characterized by lush vegetation, making it an ideal place to experience wilderness. The Grobnik Alps offer stunning mountain summits and diverse landscapes shaped by the region’s unique relief and geological structure.
If You have ever passed the road throughout Grobnik Field in Croatia, you have certainly noticed the bounded peaks that dominantly stretch the mighty mountain range above Rijeka. The mountain range is known as “Grobnik Alps” divides two different worlds. From its north side is the mountainous area known as Gorski Kotar set into the heartland. At the same time, the other lower is littoral, situated on the shore of the Adriatic Sea above Kvarner Bay.
A Slow Adventure Through the Grobnik Alps: Hiking the Hahlići Loop
Nestled above Rijeka, the Grobnik Alps offer a serene escape into nature’s embrace. The Hahlići loop, commencing from the quaint village of Podkilavac, invites hikers to immerse themselves in a landscape where time seems to slow down, allowing for deep reflection and connection with the natural world.
Embarking from Podkilavac
The journey begins in Podkilavac, a village characterized by its traditional stone houses and tranquil ambiance. As you set foot on the trail, the path meanders through gentle meadows, gradually leading you into the heart of the Grobnik Alps. The initial stretch serves as a warm-up, preparing you for the more challenging terrains ahead.
Traversing the Mudna Dol Canyon
Entering the Mudna Dol canyon, you’re greeted by a dramatic shift in scenery. This narrow gorge, carved by the Sušica stream, presents a series of natural obstacles—smooth limestone walls, steep ascents, and occasional via ferrata sections. The canyon’s unique formations, such as hollowed-out rock basins and towering cliffs, evoke a sense of awe and wonder. It’s essential to approach this segment with caution, especially during or after rainfall, as the terrain can become treacherous.
Ascending to Fratar Peak
Emerging from the canyon, the trail ascends towards Fratar Peak. The climb is steep, weaving through beech forests and rocky outcrops. Upon reaching the summit, you’re rewarded with panoramic views of the Kvarner Bay and the surrounding mountain ranges. The juxtaposition of sea and mountains offers a moment of reflection on nature’s vastness and beauty.
Resting at Hahlić Mountain Lodge
Descending from Fratar, the trail leads to the Hahlić Mountain Lodge, situated at an elevation of 1,097 meters. This cozy refuge, nestled among spruce and beech forests, provides a perfect spot to rest and rejuvenate. With amenities like electricity, internet, and a welcoming fireplace, the lodge embodies the harmonious blend of rustic charm and modern comfort. On weekends, hikers can enjoy warm beverages while soaking in the views of the Kvarner Bay.
Descending via Kolci
The return journey via the Kolci route offers a gentle descent through grassy slopes and pine forests. The path, marked by wooden stakes, guides you back to Podkilavac, allowing for moments of introspection and appreciation of the journey undertaken.
Trail Overview
- Starting Point: Podkilavac Village
- Route: Podkilavac → Mudna Dol Canyon → Fratar Peak → Hahlić Mountain Lodge → Kolci → Podkilavac
- Distance: Approximately 18 km
- Elevation Gain: Around 850 meters
- Duration: 6–8 hours, depending on pace and rest stops
- Difficulty: Moderate to challenging; suitable for experienced hikers
- Best Time to Hike: Late spring to early autumn; avoid during or after heavy rains.
Essential Tips
- Safety First: The Mudna Dol canyon can be hazardous during wet conditions. Ensure the weather is dry before attempting this segment.
- Proper Gear: Sturdy hiking boots, a helmet, and a via ferrata set are recommended for safety.
- Stay Hydrated: Carry sufficient water, as natural sources may be scarce along the trail.
- Inform Someone: Always let someone know your hiking plans and expected return time.
Embarking on the Hahlići loop is more than just a hike; it’s a journey through diverse landscapes, challenging terrains, and moments of profound tranquility. It’s an invitation to slow down, breathe deeply, and reconnect with the natural world.