In the very heart of Istria, tucked gently among rolling green hills, lies Draguć (Italian: Draguccio) — a small town of tightly woven stone houses, where history and silence live side by side.
Another Istrian gem overlooking scenic Butoniga Lake is artistic and ancient. Draguć has continued to exist for almost the entire millennium. It lies on a flysch ridge stretching over the valley called “DragućskaVala” which is 312 meters high green hill, southeast of Cerovlje. Though not so known to the public till recent, Draguć, distant 17 kilometres from Pazin, the Istrian centre, will still uncover plenty of history, cultural heritage and beautiful views of central Istria.
Due to his exceptional beauty and picturesqueness, Draguć was often part of the film scenery. Numerous local and foreign films were shot here in which the town was the setting or served as a view of the medieval ambience.
Travelling around green Istria: D means Draguć
The story of Draguć is for me not without any reason only one of those who tell about the other “Istrian Gem”, as the books use to call it. Draguć is a jewel in a real sense. It keeps the stories from its past, uncovering ancient times. Filled with the historical elements, such as the narrow streets and walls, Draguć leaves the impression of inspiration and offers to get an experience of Istria as it once was. Besides, the city offers an unforgettable view of green Istria.
I have been visiting Draguć for years. Whenever I come here, I get the inspiration to make great photography by stepping back in time. It is a small place that reflects the image of the interior of Istria. In this quiet and small town, with the medieval stone reflections, you’ll find some of the cat and dog’s friends that are sleeping in the warm sun together. There are only a few people. It is a picture of small places in the heart of the peninsula that it once was. If you look further you’ll notice easily there are beautiful views of open spaces.
Things to do in Draguć
In Draguć, as in the other Istrian towns, we find all the elements of medieval defence architecture. These are primarily the remains of the defensive walls and elements of the Venetian Republic, under whose rule the town existed from 1508 to 1797. The town was first mentioned under the name Dravuis when in 1102 Count Ulrich II Weimar donated it to the Aquileian patriarchs. However, it is believed that the area was inhabited during the Illyrian period in the Bronze Age. The remains of “StariDraguć”, which is located two kilometres away from today’s place, testify to the same.
Dragućwill let you step through the time. On the medieval stone wall, we will find the friendship of a cat and a dog sleeping together in the warm sun. This quiet place with few inhabitants today provides a picture of the life of small towns in the heart of the peninsula, as it once was. However, what is perhaps most inspiring are the views of open spaces, Lake Brtonigla, and Učka. Hereby I prepared a list of things to do while in Draguć.
Admire the frescos of the Romanesque Church of St. Elysium
The Romanesque church of St. Elysium located at the entrance of Draguć, on the cemetery is considered the oldest church in the village. The church, built of stone in two colours, dates from the 12th Century. It was made of stone in two colours in the 12th Century. The church interior is so scenic since it was painted with frescos from the 13th Century. The frescos could be seen on both, the south and the north wall. The master who painted the murals seems to be made it very quick, skilful and passionate. The frescoes are considered to be the first Cubist fresco painting, created 800 years before Picasso.
Like many other churches in Istria in the 16th Century, the church was in line with the church council’s decisions. The walls were coated with a layer of white paint, which made the frescoes hidden for centuries. They were discovered only in 1947. During the restoration work (1986-1988), there is another older layer of frescoes below. The altar standing is an ancient Roman monument from the 2nd or 3rd Century. The cemetery and lapidary are located next to the church.
Take a look at the Church of “Gospa od Ružara” (Lady of the Rosary)
Continuing our tour of Draguć, before you step into its main street, you’ll simply mention another church standing there. It’s the Church of the Holy Rosary or Our Lady of the Rosary, built-in 1641, on an older church’s site. The older church’s existence is evidenced by an altar in the interior, with Carmel’s Virgin Mary’s late Gothic statue.
The statue is considered to belong to the second half of the 15thCentury and St. Lucia and St. Catherine’s paintings. The church also houses a museum of sacred art. The church was built when a new settlement was being built into the heart of the old Draguć.
Stroll the Draguć main street and learn about the House of Captains
Lovers of photography and street architecture will like this long, straight street, with rows of houses that make the central passage from the village’s entrance leads to the main square. The main stone-paved street is filled with baroque and classicist buildings. One of them is the Captain of Draguć and the birth house of Josip Šestan (1892 – 1966), a notable teacher and vice president of the first Parliament of the Independent Republic of Croatia.
While you’re crossing by this main street, it will take you to step back in time. Set up the tripod in the centre of Draguć and pay attention to this street’s details, which have been developed over a long historical period. There is no doubt you’ll make lovely photography. Wish you a lot of fun. Strolling the main street is one of my favourite things to do in Draguć.
Pay attention to the Church of the Holy Cross with a bell tower
Arriving at the main square first, you’ll see the bell tower with the Church of St. Cross. The bell tower was built in 1847. The Church of the Holy Cross was here before the bell tower’s construction. It was built in the 15th Century and was repeatedly reinforced. One of the church angles leans on the grounds of one of the former castle’s ruined towers. The church appearance we see today dates back mainly to the 19th Century. If the church is open, we recommend paying attention to the altarpiece painting, by VenerioTrevisan (1797 – 1871), a painter from Vodnjan who was active in Istra during the middle of the 19th Century.
The building facing the church entrance is a born place of Antonio Grossich (1849-1926). He was a notable surgeon, scientist, and famous due to being the first person to use iodine tincture in sterilization.
Stop by on the Main Square
The harmony of 19th-century facades is complemented by the enormous Mediterranean hackberry trees, with an old stone table under them, a symbol of the former city government, and a marvellous public fountain for a water supply Marni Pauletich in 1888, which could be seen at the centre of the square. The square divides the old part of Draguć, i.e. the castle, from the rest of the city built in the 17th Century.
The remains of the former “castle” fortification of the older Draguć, most probably the one from the 11th or 12th Century are also visible on the square. However, it is assumed the settlement was formed on the northeast side of the city between the 17th and 19th Centuries.
Enjoy the renaissance tower view
In the southwestern part of the square, next to the fountain, we notice an old municipal house with a Renaissance tower (15th century). The 5-century-old tower was built by the Venetian provides Francesco Basadonna. Today, her balcony is a favourite lookout point or a trademark of the town. One of my favourite things about Draguć is sitting on the balcony and enjoying the stunning view. The balcony offers panoramic views of the beautiful Grimalda landscape and Lake Butoniga.
For example, those in the southern part of the slope will reveal olive trees. The cultivation of olives at an altitude of about 400 meters and 30 kilometres from the sea is very unique. It seems to be a consequence of protection from the cold east winds, especially the bora, which is the reason why it enjoys the benefits of the Mediterranean climate.
Learn about granary importance
The granary used to be the city’s storehouse for flour and cereals. It is kept as a backup supply due to awkward years, disasters, war, famine or epidemic outbreaks. During Venice’s reign, citizens were obliged to store as much as 30% of their products in a granary. Those were redeemed at a lower price than the market one.While touring the old town, pay attention to the southern part of the slope overgrown with olive trees. You will notice remains of a bastion built-in 1750 can be recognized on it.
Thrill the view from the St. Rocco church
A unique building is a St. Rocco church dating backto the 14thcentury. The church located on the west side of the place was built to protect the city from the plague. There once was the main city entrance. The capitals of the façade reveal the “detail” of the unevenness of the atrium. It is very likely due to the upgrade of the existing or complete replacement of the original. Its ceiling is painted with frescoes by master Anton of Padua, between 1529 and 1537. He testified to them with Glagolitic and Latin inscriptions.
Since the frescoes are, as in most other Istrian churches, subsequently covered with paint, their colour, apart from the action of moisture and the ravages of time, remains almost completely preserved. The same author, whose works show the influence of Venetian painting, is also credited with painting the church of St. Rocco in Oprtalj. It is an interesting fact that the master was not born in Padua, Italy, but inKašćerga, a small village that we can see with the eye from the door of the church. The magnificent view is what we first notice when we see the church of St. Roka. It reaches up to ten kilometres in the distance during a sunny day. A view is something that is truly remembered and allows us to enjoy the moment!
Visit Frescos House Museum
Yes, Draguć is the place of frescos, and the house of frescoes is located in the former school. It was built to widen the knowledge, namely the frescoes element, which reveals the importance and stages of development of the Draguć and the other neighbouring Central Istria towns.
It is considered the first frescoes in Istria that were painted during the transition from the 8th to the 9th Century. Simultaneously, the golden age of religious painting began in the 11th and lasted until the 16th Century. During the Middle Ages, frescoes did not represent only decorations and inscriptions for most illiterate populations. The frescos, with their bright colours, lured views were used to warn local people not to be sinful.
The house of the frescos has 3 floors. The ground floor is informational, on the second floor is a meeting room, and the third floor is intended for scientists who want to spend their time on projects. Maybe you want to be one of the guests? Well worth a visit.
Bonus thing to do in Draguć: get to know about the musical instrument “Bajs” on “Z Bajson u Draguć
If you’re lucky to be in Istria on the third Sunday in June, the event you should visit is “Z Bajson u Draguć”. “Bajs“ is a musical instrument in the form of violoncello and has been aside with cymbals and jellies. It’s an indispensable instrument of Croatian folk traditional music that ensembles play at weddings and festivities.
Today, it is also used by numerous bands. It is a three-stringed instrument, similar to the cello, but play with fingers or an unusual pick. Bajs, as well as various similar tools, are made by special masters only. It is a tough thing to build. Mixed wood is used to make it: maple, maple, spruce, wild cherry, and other fruit trees. The wood is dried for ten years and up to twenty each.
Be active in Draguć
Because Draguć is surrounded by the green Istrian hilltops, there are numerous activities you can do in Draguć. The only problem is which one you want to choose.
Take a hike on the St. Silvestre Path
Draguć is often used by walkers as the middle point while making the trail of St. Silvestre. This walking path connects the 7 km distant Borut from Draguć, and it was named after the church that once stood along the way to Draguć. Such traces are barely visible today. The hike lovers will enjoy this path, passing across the green forests and meadows of Istria. The approach has very quality markings, with yellow and green. If you decide to take the starting point in Draguć, take a walk to the Borut train station, which is considered a starting point in another way.
The trail passes by the cemetery of Borut with its church of St. Michael the Archangelof Borut. The church dates back to the 13th Century. Simultaneously, its extension and renovation took place in 1787. The rustic inscription above the entrance door indicates it. The church interior was renovated in the Baroque style. And again, the panoramic lovers will enjoy the stunning views just a little bit up of the church. Uphill along the church’s path will take you to the ruins of an old chapel, after which they emerge on the main trail. On your left-hand side, you will soon expire a panoramic view of the whole valley of the Borut creek, the bell tower of Lindar on a hilltop, on whose left will be seen Gračišće. And there is visible one more bell tower of Gologorica.
Taste Adventure in Trapatnica Cave – for Speleological experts only
No, there is no stamp error, you read it very well: for speleological experts only. When I say expert, I don’t mean you don’t need to be a rescue service ranger, but a little bit of the equipment and some knowledge of speleology couldn’t hurt.
Trapatnica Cave is situated under Draguć. You’ll find its entrance by descending in some 20 minutes of walking down from the village. The entrance diameter is perfect, but the cave is not just a joke, because it takes a long walk and has an exit on another side. It is almost impossible to reach another door without the appropriate speleological equipment. If you do have it, enjoy the underground world of Istria that is still not commercialized. However, don’t forget to look at the weather forecast, since the rain could be fatal and life dangerous, while you are inside of it.
A cycle tour between Hum and Kotli
And again. Like in the walking tour, Draguć is a point of the bicycle route that leads from Cerovlje and passes the Draguć. You can start your ride in Draguć if you like it and connect to the “Glagoljaška” bike route. You don’t need to be a bike expert to reach Hum.
At the end of Draguć, go down a steep trail to Korelići, and turn right. After Baštini drives the asphalt right through Oslići and Krušvari. In the middle of the town, we turn left onto the white road that leads to Kotle. Kotle is an inspirational place for nature lovers. During the summer days, you can take a refreshment from its waterfalls here. Following the asphalt across the bridge ascend to Brnobići, where after turning right you arrive at Hum.
Daily tours from Draguć
Similar to Draguć, there are no doubt the other hilltops and tiny places lying next to it. Here are some of our suggestions.
Kašćerga
Located in northeast Istria under the Padua hill there is a little village of Kašćerga. It is dominated by the „Church of Our Lady of the Snows“ (Gospa od Snijega), dating back to1686. Kašćerga celebrates its day every year on August 5th, it bears the name of „Anthony from Padua“, a famous painter born in this place. The legend has it that one year on that day Padua (Kašćerga) was covered in snow. After you climbed to the peak of Padova hill, sit under one of its large oaks and enjoy the view of the vast horizons.
1,6 kilometres above Kašćerga where is the start of the winding road that connects another gem, Trviž, don’t miss climbing the Pilošćak Hill (480 m). It is one of the highest and most beautiful lookouts in central Istria.
Grimalda & Kršikla
After that, you mentioned the view of the green landscapes bounded by the hill and red “Grimalda” then you should know you are straight on one of the most beautiful Istrian lookouts. The old village at an altitude of 447 m is nothing but lush with a magnificent view. It would reveal the numerous villages scattered in the valleys, stretching the slopes of Učka and Ćičarija.
After your eyes and heart are filled with the view, get head to the place, first mentioned as a settlement date back as early as 1202. It has no permanent residents today, but the village will not die out, as the houses are being renovated. There is also the parish church of St. George and the cemetery for the whole area. There is a Romanesque church from the 13th Century in the graveyard.
Not far away from Grimalda with no less breathtaking view of the landscapes of beauty, one will easily reach a Kršikla. First mentioned in 1304. the place situated in greenery is dominated by the imposing bell tower of “church of “St. Cosmas and St. Damjan“. The church built on an earlier one is dating back to 1868.
Borut
Borut is located in the very centre of Istria. The area characterized by the sediments enabled to development of brick production. We can still see the remnants of the brick factory that was opened around 1904 in it. Besides the work on the railway, brick once was the only employment in the place. Today is traditionally engaged in agriculture (cereals, vines, fruits, vegetables) and livestock (cattle, pigs, in recent times and ostriches).
The settlement already existed in the 13th century, when it belonged to the Patriarch of Aquileia. Later was owned by the bishop of Pićan, and eventually by the Principality of Pazin. The place was first mentioned in the land register of the Principality of Pazin in 1498, in the form of Warmuth.
Borut has numerous opportunities to walk around whenever about the direction you want to go. What I recommend for the hikers and walkers is to take “St Cocian Path“ or “St. Silvestre path”. Putokoza team has trekked it the both and is the same wonderful.
Getting to Draguć
- GPS. Latitude: 45.333270. Longitude: 14.003970.
- ✈️ Air.There are several nearest airports. Pula Airport is the nearest option. It’s about one hour of drive away from Draguć. Rijeka Airportwhich is approximately 100 kilometres distant makes a good alternative instead to Pula. The middle range airports are Trieste airport (150 kilometres far away) and Ljubljana airport. Zagreb airportis about 235 kilometres from Dragućwhile Venice Airport (Marco Polo) is 250 kilometres far away.
- 🚌 Bus. The nearest central bus station for the area is located in Pazin. It combines the lines running from all the bus stations in Croatia, including more daily route connections with the capital Zagreb.
- 🚆 Train. The nearest train station is located in Pazin. In case you want to travel by train, you should reach Pazin first and then get some transfer to Draguć.
- 🚗 Self-drive and parking in Draguć. Arriving by car is one of the most suitable ways. There is a small parking lot before entering the village of Draguć located next to the cemetery.
