Set in Karawanks mountain range, Begunjščica Peak, the highest of the broad – shouldered mountain is grassy, offering the magnificent views over Slovenia and Austria.
Some trails are dramatic. Others are poetic. The hike to Begunjščica’s Veliki Vrh (2,060 m) is a little of both.
Set within the rolling ridge of the Karawanks mountain range, this broad-shouldered peak isn’t just about elevation—it’s about space, views, and flow. Its wide pastures, panoramic ridgelines, and peaceful huts make it ideal for a full-day hiking circle that moves with the rhythm of your breath rather than the pressure of your watch.
Come ready to take your time. This is not just a hike—it’s a passage.
Morning at Ljubelj Pass – The Border of Two Worlds
We started at Ljubelj Pass, an alpine border crossing between Slovenia and Austria. The parking lot here, at just over 1,000 meters, feels unassuming. But as we tightened our laces, the cool air and nearby Born Tunnel reminded us that nature and history would be walking with us.
A wooden sign pointed the way toward Planina Preval—our first destination—and within minutes, we were swallowed by forest and climbing gently on Bornova Pot.
Through the Tunnel – Walking in the Footsteps of Count Born
The Born Trail was named after Julius Born, a 19th-century nobleman and nature lover who built the path and tunnel to reach his hunting grounds. The tunnel itself, a damp and dimly lit passage carved into the rock, feels like stepping into another time.
On the other side, the forest opened onto steep, grassy slopes, with the trail contouring elegantly along the eastern face of Begunjščica. The cliffs above were quiet, the valley below wide and green.
With every step, we felt the pace of the world fall away.
Planina Preval – Where Meadows and Milk Await
After about 90 minutes, we reached Koča na Planini Preval, a charming hut nestled just south of the Preval saddle. The hut serves local dairy products from the surrounding pasture—fresh cheese, sour milk, and hearty štruklji.
The sheep and cows grazing nearby were no showpiece—they were part of the life here. Their bells echoed across the slope, joining birdsong and breeze.
This was a perfect place to pause. Not to refuel for a summit, but to enjoy being still in the middle of a mountain.
The Climb to Veliki Vrh – A Ridge Worth the Reach
Leaving the hut behind, we turned north, climbing steadily through forest and then across open terrain toward the summit ridge.
This section is steep but scenic—first through dwarf pine, then over grassy slopes with occasional patches of scree. Mushrooms peeked through the undergrowth, and in autumn, the air here would carry the scent of earth and pine.
After about two hours, we reached the ridge of Begunjščica. To the north: Austria. To the south: Slovenia’s green valleys. To the east and west: a ribbon of trail meandering across the highlands.
A short final climb led us to Veliki Vrh (2,060 m)—the highest of Begunjščica’s three peaks. The views were nothing short of soul-cleansing: Lake Bled, the Sava plain, and far-off silhouettes of Triglav and the Kamnik Alps.
Down to Roblekov Dom – From Sky to Hearth
The descent began gently along the ridgeline, before diving into a series of switchbacks that led us through grassy meadows and into the embrace of forest.
Within an hour, the cozy sight of Roblekov Dom appeared below us.
This hut, rebuilt after World War II, sits at one of the best viewpoints on the mountain. We rested here, sipping drinks and gazing out toward Lake Bled glistening far below. If you time your visit right, this is one of the most magical places to watch sunset in all of Slovenia.
Into the Valley – Hidden Forest Trails and Gentle Meadows
From Roblekov Dom, the descent steepened into forest. After about one hour, we reached a trail fork. Turning left, we followed signs for Dom Pri Izviru Završnice, a peaceful hut tucked beside a spring and shaded by pines.
This part of the hike felt hushed. The air cooler, the forest darker. At the hut, we sat beside the bubbling Završnica Creek, dipping our hands in the cold water, grateful for silence.
There was no rush to leave—but we still had ground to cover.
Across to Zelenica – The Final Traverse
Refreshed, we began the final section: a gentle traverse toward Zelenica Lodge, another 30–40 minutes away. The path was easier now, following grassy slopes and alpine wildflowers, with occasional views opening toward the Karawanks ridge.
At Zelenica, the last light of day dipped below the peaks. Some hikers would stay here overnight. But we lingered just long enough for a few final photos, then began our descent back to Ljubelj.
The path—wide, winding, and quiet—delivered us to the trailhead just before twilight.
Trek Goat Tips for Hiking Begunjščica
- Total Time: 6–8 hours (allow more for long breaks)
- Distance: ~17 km round trip
- Elevation Gain: 1,000+ meters
- Season: Spring to autumn; winter ascents best from Zelenica
- Highlights:
- Dairy treats at Planina Preval
- The expansive views from Veliki Vrh
- Sunset at Roblekov Dom
- The serenity of Završnica spring
- Best For: Day-long slow adventurers, hikers seeking solitude and a variety of landscapes, anyone looking to escape the more crowded Julian Alps
Conclusion – Where Sky Touches Grass
Begunjščica is not a place to race through. It’s a mountain made for wandering, wondering, and watching. Each segment—from the Born Tunnel to Preval’s pasture, the summit ridge to the hidden spring—tells its own story.
This route reminds us that beauty lives in layers: forest under meadow, limestone under grass, stillness under motion.
And when you descend back into the valley, legs tired and heart full, you won’t remember how many kilometers you walked—but you’ll remember how the mountain made you feel.