Banina waterfall or “Rečina” as the locals affectionately call it, is one of those rare places shaped as if to awaken the dreams of every artist, wanderer, or patient eye behind a lens. Nestled deep within the dense forested slopes of Mount Učka, this waterfall remains fresh, serene, and quietly magnificent.
Tucked deep in the emerald folds of Mount Učka, far from the tourist maps and hurry of the coast, lies Banina Waterfall – or Rečina, as the locals lovingly call it. This is no roaring cascade or towering Alpine drop. It is, instead, a gentle exhale of water, veiled in shade and birdsong, moving quietly through one of the most poetic corners of the Učka Nature Park.
The Rhythm of Slowness
To reach Banina Waterfall is to surrender to the forest. The trail begins at Poklon Pass (922 m), already a peaceful realm in itself. We took our first steps in the late afternoon, the air still warm from the sun, yet cooled under the thick beech and pine canopy. A sign for the children’s educational trail marked our beginning, and within ten minutes, we followed the modest signpost reading simply: “Slap.”
The descent came gently at first, losing altitude with a quiet patience. The forest floor, mossy and damp, muffled our steps. We crossed a stream for the first time, and then again, each crossing felt like a small initiation into a slower world.
Ranch Bubač and Forest Whispers
Soon we passed Ranch Bubač, nestled like a forgotten postcard in a clearing of deep woods. Horses grazed lazily. The owners offered greetings and stories, as if time had softened here, too. After the ranch, the path turned steeper, hugging the slope above the stream. We moved carefully. The trail was slick in places, damp from spring rains. But the forest held us.
The sound of water grew louder. Flowers bloomed quietly at our feet – early spring messengers, unhurried in their arrival. A short descent brought us to a large rock and a second crossing. We were now on the left bank, entering a wide, green valley, the air rich with the scent of leaves and damp earth.
Arrival at the Waterfall
Then, a hush. The sound shifted from murmur to music. We arrived.
Banina Waterfall dropped gently over a tall, mossy rockface, gathering into a small pool. It was not vast, but intimate. A waterfall made not for drama, but for contemplation. A statue of “Our Lady of the Waterfall” watched over the scene, delicate and quiet as the place itself.
We didn’t speak for a while. We simply sat, listening. Birds in the beech trees sang in the background. The water spoke its ancient rhythm. A camera clicked occasionally. But mostly, we just listened.
The Way Back
Clouds gathered as we began our return. The weather forecast had been right. Rain touched us gently as we followed the stream back to the intersection. Instead of retracing the steep canyon trail, we looped a gentler route past the former INA resort, now overtaken by silence and trees.
We rejoined the road to Ranch Bubač and followed it back to Poklon Pass, arriving with the first heavy drops of rain. The full walk, including rest, took about four hours. We weren’t rushing. This was never about getting there fast.
Notes for the Patient Explorer
- Trailhead: Poklon Pass (reachable via the old road from Veprinac or Učka tunnel exit)
- Distance: approx. 4 hours round trip
- Difficulty: Moderate. Some steep or slippery sections. Hiking boots recommended.
- Best seasons: Spring and early summer for water flow and flowers.
- Wildlife & flora: Be mindful not to disturb or collect anything. This includes bear’s garlic, often mistaken for poisonous lookalikes like Lily of the Valley.
Final Words
Banina Waterfall is not a destination. It’s a pause. It’s a slow breath in the middle of nature’s sentence. Come without expectations. Come with time. Let your walk be shaped by what you hear, not just what you see. And when you arrive, leave a little quieter than when you came.