Set above the magnificent Mirna River, lengthening its flow around the valley, Motovun is scenic and vivid.
Motovun is an old picturesque fortified town, first mentioned in the 12th century. Surrounded by green Istrian vineyards and forests under the hills, known for black and white truffles, I would say Motovun is the most visited picturesque place in central Istria.
Why should you visit Motovun?
Motovun is an ideal place if you are looking to skip the prominent summer tourist hotspots in Croatia and leave them behind. If so, you should not miss Motovun while strolling the Istrian roads passing by its hills and forests. The photographers will like Motovun, which hidesone of the most famous photo sections in Istria.Many artists and photographers will feel inspired to create in Motovun too. Precisely, many of them would make the works with those forms which could be never forgotten.
Putokoza was on the spot and always got inspired while visiting the picturesque places of Istria such as Motovun. When I arrived in medieval Motovun for the first time as a kid due to an elementary school visit, I couldn’t imagine what historical significance is hidden in that place. Soon after I grew up and started to learn more about the heritage, I realized this town is an architecture master perfect. However, the thing which never changed was the stunning view extending to the green valley. Such is the same, and I will always remember it the same as I visited the place for the first time. Every time I revisit the site, this view reminds me of what I saw as a kid, and I am still happy to enjoy it in those children’s eyes from my first visit.
5 Things to do in Motovun
You are you’re on the right track to keep on reading this article about Motovun, a small charming hilltop place nestled in central Istria! Even though a Putokoza does not drink as much wine, let’s try some truffles and exceptional food. All of it too for a perfect escape we listed for you below. Motovun has a population of around 600 citizens only. Still, it has been visited every day by more rewarded artists from Europe. Hereby we listed 5 essential things to do. So get a ride on a steep yet paved road to reach the small town and begin a tour.
While tasting the truffles, which are the greatest gift of the place, take a break and enjoy the forest’s view. Its bottom hides legends and fairy tales. Take the photos, be active on two wheels, stroll around, and re-inspire yourself again in the unpolluted air.
1. Enjoy Josef Ressel Square viewpoint
The beautiful picturesque square of the Josef Ressel is something you’ll first mention once you climb up to the town. The picturesque square is named after Josef Ressel (1793-1857), an Austrian Czech forester who invented a ship propeller and worked in Motovun.A square had also strategic importance since there is a vast space leading to the oldest part of the city.It connected the outer and inner city gates. A visitor wouldn’t miss the view from the square. Take a seat and enjoy the green landscapes while tasting some glass of Istrian Malvasia or Merlot. My favourite time to be there is sunset.
One of the features there is also the awesomeVenetian loggia. Once it served as a justice place. Under its roof decisions were made public to the people and judges were making their decisions. The loggia has been a favourite place for many generations ofyoung Motovun walking into the sunset and sharing their first shy love glimpsed right in the town lodge.You shouldn’t miss taking a photo of it. A loggia was first mentioned in 1331 as a public place under the name “Lobia Maior“, but it is not even known if it was in this place.
2. Stroll the Andrea Antico Square
The central town square bearing the name of the Renaissance composer and musician, born in Motovun. A square is bounded by the Baroque St.Stephen Church and Municipal Palace and the Communal Palace.
Local tip. Find some artistic points. Motovun is where the artists will find their place. One of the artistic features is the cistern located right on the A.Antico square.A cistern once served as a water supply for Motovun. So it was practically one of the medieval town’s key elements. The cisterns called “šterna” by locals had great importance in Istria. This evidences the well from the northern part of the square, dating to the 15th century.
3. Walk along the city walls and enjoy the view
You simply cannot miss the most important thing while in Motovun. And of course, I mean walking alongside its strategic defensive walls. In 1278 when the city was taken over by the Venetian Republicsolid walls were built. The towers and city gates contain elements of Romanesque, Gothic and Renaissance. To get the best-unobstructed views of the valley below, you’ll need to buy a ticket. Except, during the wintertime. Once you come to the city walls promenade, you will be able to walk on them and enjoy the view as much as you like. The number of visitors will depend on the year season. Still, I like to say that you’ll be mostly out of a lot of hustle & bustle compared to those other significant destinations. As I found just a few couples with us the whole time, we were walking the walls in the middle of them.
To feel mystical, get strolling the picturesque Motovun walls with a hidden past, from their vantage points. There you will enjoy a magnificent view of the vineyards, the Mirna Valley and St. Mark’s Forest. Though the view from the walls of Motovun is incredibly stunning, however, I have to uncover one truth. Motovun can be very foggy in the mornings. But this is precisely when a city surrounded by sun and fog is the best to photograph.
Local tip: search the legend of happiness. According to a legend the Motovun castle lies on an ancient energy source that keeps residents always happy. Taking all this into consideration, the myth might be right.
4. Capture the Motovun bell tower
You simply cannot miss making beautiful photos ofa 27-metre high Romanesque-Gothic bell tower. A crenulated crown building it dominates the medieval city and the entire landscape of the middle part of the Mirna River Valley. It seems to be like a knight looking at it from the hill’s bottom and is one of the most common patterns on Motovun postcards.
A building built in the 13th century had mainly a defensiveand observation purpose, but it has been rebuilt several times. Eventually, it was rebuilt to serve as a bell tower. The last restoration from 1528 is also testified by the inscription.
5. Stroll the Narrow Streets and find some Handmade
Motovun’s narrow cobblestone streets seem to be so picturesque. One can spend at least one hour or even a few walking, taking photos of coloured houses, walls, or beautiful vistas. But you can also spend another hour browsing the Istrian handmade shops with plenty of gallery-style goods for sale. Many of them offer the items as handmade souvenirs truffles, wines, or othersimilar products.
Motovun consists of three parts – the oldest one with upper walls on the top, the Podgrđeright below it, and Gradiziol. A very attractive area to walk is Gradiziol, a suburb of Motovun, located at the old town’s foothill. An area datingback to the 14th centurygets its appearance during the 18thcentury. It is believed that this part of the city was guarded by a series of tall houses, built on the north side.
Local tip: Climb the 1000 Stairs. Those who like sports can climb Motovun by foot via the 1000 steps leading straight to Motovun Hill’s top. Climb up to the top of the mountain and enjoy the picturesque scenery.
Bonus thing to do in Motovun:Learnabout Veli Jože’s legend
Motovun is known among today’s population of Istria as the city of Veli Jože. The good gentle giant is a character in a novel written by the Croatian author Vladimir Nazor, one of the most important Croatian writers of the 20thcentury.
First published in 1908 the novel scenario takes a place in the Istrian peninsula at the time of Venice, telling about Jože, a friendly and good-hearted giant. Veli Jože is one of the most famous works of Vladimir Nazor. The tale has become known throughout Croatia, while the character of Veli Jože (Big Joe) is quite correctly linked with the city of Motovun.
Motovun sights
Though it seems to look tiny, once you climb up to the top of the hill, you’ll mention that Motovun has a few historical monuments. Many historians would agree, that Motovun makes one of the most preserved defensive castles in Istria. The place grew up on the site of an ancient city called Castellieri. It’s assumed the settlement developed for the first time on the hill before the Roman era.Then the Gradina was owned by the Celts or the Sekusi tribe. It is believed the Slavic name Motovun was distinguished in the spirit of the Croatian dialect. At the turn of the 19th century, a tombstone was found in Novigrad with the inscription “Montona Rustica”. Hereby we listed some of the sights.
The Tower – Northern Gate
The tower, also known as the Renaissance Northern Gatedating back to the 9th century, was significantly important to the city. It overlooked the road towards the ring of defence walls while leading to interior walls called “Muraje“, dating back to the 13th century. Those surrounded the city’s oldest part.According to the superscription, the exit gateway was restored in 1607, during the government of the Podestà. Inside the passage, there is a lapidary with a Venetian lion and a coat of arms with 5 towers.
While passing the gate and feeling like a knight in one of the few well preserved medieval castle systems, I would like to mention that Motovun had two rings of defensive walls. Such contribution is significantly maintained today.
St.StephenChurch
The Parish church of St. Stephen, located on Antica Square is a three-nave basilica. It was built on a previous church’s remains, most likely on an ancient basilica’s foundations. According to the legend the margrave Engelbert of Istria and his wife countess Matilda were buried in the older church. The present-day church was built from 1580 to 1614, while its current form only took over in the 18thcentury. Italian architect Andrea Palladiorenowned it. The three marble altars are inside the church and one precious wooden one. On the main altar are statues of St. Stephen and Lorenzoa work by Francesco Bananic in 1735. The church also safes sacral collections as candlesticks.
The Municipal Palace
The impressiveMunicipal Palace could be easily noticed while entering the space between the inside and outside town Gates. It is one of the best-preserved Romanesque public buildings not only in Istria but in Croatia. Besides Romanesque, it also has Gothic-style features, similar as well as the remains of Romanesque and Gothic houses in Motovun. The palace was first mentioned as a medieval fortification dating from the 13th century. In addition to its public function, it also served as an essential part of the city’s defence as a city hall during the same period.
Polesini Palace
A building located on the very top of the town dates back to the 18th century. Today it serves as the Boutique Hotel Kaštel. The buildingwas home to Motovun’s most affluent patrician family who controlled large fertile land complexes around Zamask, Motovunski Novaki and Poreč. The Polesini family was given the title of Marquis in the 18thcentury, and various prominent persons and intellectuals were.
The Church of the Blessed Virgin Mary
Located at the entrance to the foothill, the church dates back to the 16thcentury. In 1595 the Servites founded their convent next to the cathedral and lived there until 1790. The 15 meters high bell tower next to the church seems to be very picturesque. It was added in 1749. The floor of the church holds a variety of graveyards belonging to prominent Motovun families.
The old Pharmacy Building – Hospice
During the Middle Age, the almshouse or the home care also operated Motovun. A small team of a doctor and a pharmacist was working in the town as early as 1331. It’s unknown how often the doctor worked from the hospice. There is evidence the hospice, rebuilt in 1622, was managed by a psychiatrist hired by the community and a surgeon.
A foothill area maingate
The principal city gate leads from the lower square to the citadel-the city’s oldest portion. The gate’s vaulted opening opens into the “outer square” This mighty gate and its high tower, established in the 16thcentury, provided people protection and prohibited, potential invaders from reaching the area. Merchants and agricultural workers coming from the nearby villages were clunking up this arched corridor carrying their boots, respecting the significance and strength of the aristocracy who resided in the citadel.
St.Anthony of Padua/St.Cyprian church
The fascinating church named by two saintswas first mentioned as early as 1454. During the 19thcentury, the church was extensively rebuilt and honoured with votive contributions from locals.Saint Cyprian is believed to be a protector against the plague. For that purpose, it is evident that a church devoted to him as in some other medieval towns was constructed at the town entrance. Then, it was believed, that this would prevent the horrible plague disease from entering and outbreak the city.
Motovun outdoor
Now, when you finished the history tour and if you have time outdoor, I’d say let’s go!You simply cannot be an outdoor fan and not taste one of Motovun’s surrounding mystical paths.
Motovun Cycling
If you don’t have your bicycle, don’t care. You can rent itto ride out into the countryside. You can hire anything you need from tour operators in Motovun, including the helmet and the safety equipment. There are a few of the most famous bicycle tours: Voćni put (Fruit Trail), Stara Ferata (Old railway) and Veli Jože. Take a look at the Tourist Board while there for details.
By bike: A cycling tour alongside Mirna River. One of my favourite cycling tours of Istria is undoubtedly the trail alongsidethe Mirna River. A trail that is 57 km long lead alongside the river banks, overlooking Motovun hill. The Mirna River is the longest river on the Istrian peninsula. It springs next to Hum, the smallest place in the world and flows till the river mouth of the Antenal next to Novigrad. There it spills into the sea.
A beaten ancient path will reveal traces of the past from Roman times. Before that time, the ships sailed alongside the River Mirna from Antenal at Buzet’s foot. However, the river changed its size during the geological changes, and the water level has also changed. Even though it is no longer used for water transport, you can still notice the old lighthouses with the door and pit in the bottom used for fire. Their light could be seen during the stormy winter nights from the river and the sea.
By bike: Parenzana. A former railway, which opened in 1902, todaymakes a 123-kilometre long cycle track, crossing over the 11 bridges, 6 viaducts and passing through the 9 tunnels. The railway which used to connect Trieste and Poreč was affected by appearing of the cheaper transport. So it should be closed. After its tracks were soon removed, the infrastructure lasted.
Motovun hike& walk
Walking funs would like Motovun area. The natural beauties and Motovun surroundings of the Mirna Valley, the forest of Motovun and the old rail Parenzana are madefor a walk.
Putokoza walking Tip: walk the Motovun Forest. One of my favourite autumn activities is to breathe the air of Motovun forest, situated in the alluvial ground along the Mirna valley. A walk along the Motovun Forest will let out the intrinsic habitat in the world: a white truffle (Tuber Magnatum Pico).
Get a breath of its air under the shadow lined by ancient deciduous trees. The typical natural tree variety rising in this forest is the pedunculate oak (Quercus robur), a specific plant in the lower sections of mainland Croatia.The Motovun Forest was considered during the Austro-Hungarian Monarchy a reserve dedicated to the growing of wood securing the supply for shipyards of building timber.
Motovun events
There are few of them during the year.
The Festival of Teran Wine and Truffles
Suppose you are in Istria on the last Saturday in September and you like to taste the wines. In that case, you simply cannot miss this single-day exhibition of public wine tasting. And not just the wine. It’s a Teran wine, one of the good wines by locals in Istria. Yes, this type is produced in the surroundings of Motovun. The Festival also exhibits truffles and truffle tasting. Look for the biggest one that is awarded by the title “Veli Jože”. Do you know the biggest could be grown as heavy as 500 grams?
“Igra Na Roh” (Throwing of the Horn)
A very unique but simple traditional game has been played on Ash Wednesday, the first day of Lent in Motovun every year. There are simple rules: one of the players throws an ox’s horn, and the others attempt to throw their wooden bats or ‘Bačuke’, as close as possible to it. The winner is the one who gets closest to the horn.
Motovun Film Festival (Cinehill)
The culture and the movie buffs will enjoy the Motovun Film Festival, which is held every year during the summer since 1999. Motovun Film Festival, now known as Cinehill, is no longer held in Motovun but has moved to the scenic locations of Gorski kotar. Since 1999, it has attracted film and culture lovers with its rich summer program. If you’re in the region in late July, don’t miss the open-air evening screenings and all-day film marathons—from morning until past midnight—that now continue in the refreshing mountain atmosphere of Cinehill.
Getting to Motovun
Daily tours from Motovun. Like the other Istrian hills, such as Oprtalj, Zrenj, Buzet, Buje, Zamask, and many others, Motovun is one of the spots that make Istria wonderful as it is.
- Air. Pula airport is about 75 km distant from Motovun. It’s the nearest one.Rijeka Airport(95 km. away) is about 1 hour and a half the driveexcluding the possible traffic jams.Trieste Airport is about 110 kilometres distant from Motovun. The other airports may be used, such as Venice Airport(220 kilometres away), Zagreb Airport(270km far away)or Ljubljana airport.
- Bus.The nearest bigger bus station is in Pazin.
- Train. There are the nearest train stations in Buzet or Koper. However, to reach Motovun, you’ll need some private transfer or taxi while about 20 km.
- Parking. Even though Motovun is tiny, it has become more popular throughout the years. So that every year grows the number of visits. There are several parking locations at the foothill entrance of the town. Keep in mind, there are no cars allowed in the centre of Motovun. Parking is not free of charge during the summer season. To protect a city, there is a local bus connection from the parking place to the city entrance.